Howell's Tokyo Top 10

Recently, Howell sent me through his "Tokyo Top 10". I have no idea whether it's accurate or not, however I do know that it makes a great read, and I want to go there more than ever now!! Take a look:

1) Meiji shrine (aka "Meiji-jingu") in Harajuku

Why? The coolest, most chilled place in Tokyo. My no.1 every time.
Details Go to Harajuku JR station (on the Yamanote line), turn right at the
exit, wander up the road for a bit, and turn right into the shrine.
Notes On the walk to the shrine, you'll pass a big square that should be full of 'goth'/'cosplay' girls, who LOVE having their photos taken - just ask them first ("Ii desu ka?" = "Is it OK?"). Also, you HAVE to wander down the main shopping street in Harajuku that's full of crazy shops, perfect for unusual/completely mad gifts to bring home for people.
More Info See Lonely Planet guide

2) Visit a sumo stable in Ryogoku

Why? Get to see them in action, close up! (but don't sit too close to the ring area as they WILL fall on you at some point - not good!)
Details You need to get a list of "Sumo stables that accept foreigners" from JNTO in London (tel: 020 7734 9638, http://www.jnto.go.jp/), phone up the stable when you're in Japan, the day before you go, and arrive there no later than 7.30am or so - the earlier the better. If JNTO's office in London don't have the list of sumo stables, go to the JNTO office in Tokyo - they have EVERYTHING there! (I famously spent 3 hours there asking questions and getting leaflets on my 1st trip - got maps, leaflets etc. for the WHOLE OF JAPAN, as I hadn't decided my itinery at all at this point!)
Notes While you're in Ryogoku, visit the big sumo tournament building - there's even a sumo gift shop there (as you can imagine there's some fun gifts here, including sumo wrestler pens!?!)
More Info See JNTO's "Traditional Sports" leaflet - download/print it from here (there's also info here on when you can go and watch judo training at the Kodokan in Tokyo - it's every evening, I believe - the headquarters of judo in the world, I think - you'll see the most impressive training ever - it's like a giant battle from a martial arts film!).

3) Go to Tsukiji fish market

Why? It's the biggest fish market in the world, restaurant owners from all across Japan come here every morning for the 5am fish auction.
Details Get there as early as you can - if you miss the auction, no problem, but you should arrive by 7 - 7.30am at the latest, before the action dies down. You'll see more fish, octopus etc. etc. than you've seen in your life, and there's some major hussle and bustle - some wonderful, very colourful photo opportunities.
Notes Go for sushi breakfast at one of the sushi restaurants here - for the FRESHEST SUSHI YOU WILL EVER HAVE IN YOUR LIFE (it's just been bought at the market!). Beware that the market may NOT be every day - so check with someone / your guidebook before you get up at the crack of dawn to go there!
More Info  

4) Visit the sake centre, Ginza

Why? Free sake tasting, you fool! ;)
Details It's in Ginza, and is a nightmare to find! Address:
Syuzo Kaikan
(Sake Information Center)
1-1-21 Nishi Shinbashi
Minato-ku
Tel: +81 (03) 3519-2091
Shimbashi station (Ginza & other lines)
"Explore the techniques involved in making Japan's famous rice wine, then head to the free tasting section. Those after a bottle of the best should consider buying Tamano-hikari, Taruhei or Uragasumi."
Notes While in Ginza, also visit the Godzilla statue, Kabukiza (very famous/beautiful kabuki theatre and the Sony Showroom - all of which are marked on the Ginza map in Lonely Planet.
More Info  

5) Stay in Shinjuku Green Plaza Capsule Hotel

Why? You can't do this anywhere else in the world - a totally unique Japanese experience!
Details Leave via the "Kabukicho" east entrance of Shinjuku station - it's on the map in your Lonely Planet guide for Shinjuku east / Kabukicho. It's roughly opposite a US Goods store, on the right hand side of the road, just after a convenience store... it looks like a massive hotel. Go in through the automatic doors, walk down some steps and bend to the right, go in the lift, and I
believe it's the 4th floor. LEARN KATAKANA so you can read the words "Kapuseru Hoteru" - both on the building outside and on the button in the lift)
Notes You must visit "Rock Bar Mother" bar that's about 10 minutes walk or so away - it's underground and you'll know you're there when you hear really loud heavy music belting out from the speakers at ground level. It's on the map in Lonely Planet, again for Shinjuku east / Kabukicho. Don't arrive until after 11pm, stay all night! You MUST get a seat at the small bar - best opportunities for chatting to tons of cool people, both Japanese locals and also Westerners who are now living / teaching in Tokyo.
More Info  

6) Visit Akihabara

Why? It's the gadget capital of the world!
Details It's on the Yamanote line, clockwise direction maybe 6 or so stops from Ikebukuro.
Notes If you buy a gadget, make sure it's the Western "export" model and you get English instructions! (unless it's a small, easy to use
battery-operated gizmo)
More Info  

7) Go to "Hiroki" okomiyaki restaurant

Why? You have NOT LIVED until you've tried Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki
Details It's in Shimokitazawa, a very cool Tokyo suburb popular with students, with loads of old winding streets and markets. To get there, you have to take a non-JR line from either Shinjuku or Shibuya - just ask "Shimokitazawa wa doko desu ka?" to a ticket barrier guy at either of these two stations and he'll tell you where you need to go.
Notes

You will NOT find this by yourself - show the address to the guard at the train station when you get off, at a police box (Koban) or to a passer-by, or a shop owner. If you can't see a "Koban", ask for directions to the koban first ("Koban wa doko desu ka?") - everyone will know where it is.
Here's the address (travel to Shimakitazawa station and ask for directions) - got it from http://club.nokia.co.jp/i/tq/e/db/REhiroki.html:


Hiroki
UPSCALE OKONOMIYAKI HIROSHIMA-STYLE
2-14-14 Kitazawa
Setagaya-ku


Nearest station: Shimokitazawa
Telephone: Tokyo (03) 3412.3908
Open: Everyday from noon till 9:45 pm

More Info Some snippets from the detailed printout of an old website:
  • "most of its narrow space filled by the three-meter long griddle counter and its twelve stools."
  • "topped with your choice of oyster (highly recommended), shrimp, squid, scallop, octopus, cheese, mochi, or garlic."
  • "After 16 years, Kadomae-san, the owner, has assembled tens of thousands of okonomiyaki. Her family owns the largest oyster farm in Hiroshima and every other day in season (from October to March) fresh oysters are flown in on ice - not in water. Water, she says, changes their taste."

8) Go to "Kaga-ya" bar

Why? The owner's a nutter who likes dressing up like a bull, a frog etc. etc. It's the most surreal bar on earth!
Details It was described on the www.timeout.com/tokyo website, but the bars section has gone.
Go the Shinbashi station (and take the Karasumori exit) stop on the Yamanote line, and ask for directions to this address:
Kaga-ya,
Hanasada Building,
B1F,
2-15-12 Shinbashi,
Minato-ku
Telephone: Tokyo (03) 3591 2347
Open: 5.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat
Notes Fantastic conveyor belt sushi restaurant (in fact, there might be lots here) fairly near the train station. If you can't find "Kaga-ya" bar - just go and pig out on sushi instead!
More Info Here's the description from my printout from the website that first got me interested in this place:
"When the awards for the strangest place in Tokyo are handed out, the master of this bar, who goes by the very un-Japanese name of Mark, will be somewhere near the front of the queue. On arrival, you will be handed a cocktail list which is nothing more than a list of countries. Once you've placed your order, the master will disappear into a cupboard and reappear dressed in a costume reflecting the country you've chosen. The drink itself may be in a vibrating glass, a glass that moos when picked up, or a soup bowl. Once the drinks round it over, you will be encouraged to play games and dress up. small portions of delicious food are provided as part of the 500 Yen cover charge, cooked by the master's tolerant mother. Go in a party of at least six (call to book, it's a small place) and you'll have the time of your life. The billing system is mysterious; no matter how much you eat and drink here, it always seems to come to 2,500 Yen a head."

Web sites:
There's a review (and a photo of the bar owner in his frog outfit and another with loads of teddies!?!) here:

http://metropolis.japantoday.com/tokyo/448/bars.asp

The bar's English web page:

http://www1.ocn.ne.jp/%7Ekagayayy/index_e.html

For Howell's own description of his experience click here.

9) Shibuya

Why? It's the cool, young trendy area where all the 'kids' hang out
Details It's on the Yamanote line about 3 or 4 stops before Shinjuku
Notes Eat "Takoyaki" (octopus balls) from the stall in front of the main (North) train entrance, go to the special "Hachiko entrance" where you'll end up in an area with a very famous statue of a dog "Hachiko". In the evenings and on weekends, this is where ALL the youngsters meet up before going on a night out etc.
More Info  

10) Kamakura

Why? Beautiful temples, giant Buddha, "Hase-Kannon" (giant golden Kwan-Yin statue in one of the temples), nice coastal location
Details Maybe go on a weekday so it's not mad busy!
Notes Maybe an hour or so by train from Tokyo (can't remember which station you need to go from, but just ask someone)
More Info  

Sorry, just one more if you're going in April:

11) Cherry Blossom party

Why? It's a great way to get drunk with lots of Japanese people
Details Kimi Ryokan (my recommended place to stay in Tokyo, in the Ikebukuro area: http://www.kimi-ryokan.jp/) holds its own Cherry Blossom party on the 2nd or 3rd Sunday in April.
Notes There's a poster for it in Kimi Ryokan - ask at reception for a leaflet to take with you - go to the park where you need to go (grab lots of sushi, snacks and beer/sake at a convenience store on the way there), holding the sign up - and the group of (mostly Japanese) people affiliated with Kimi Ryokan's sister English-language school will call you and you can spend the day
with them. I went in 2003, and met some really cool people - an Irish guy called Phil and his Japanese girlfriend called Kimie. If you go in April, I could ask him the exact date when it is, and if he's going again. I'll let you know!
More Info  

PPS Lots more leaflets - see here:
http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/RTG/PTG/index.html

PPPS Here's a description of the "Kaga-ya" bar experience that I wrote in an email to a friend while I was in Japan in 2003:
"WEIRDEST EXPERIENCE
Going to a bar in Tokyo called "Kaga-ya" where the owner serves drinks and food in joke glasses / bowls, so your drink may vibrate, go "moo", or burp, and your food may make elephant noises whenever your chopsticks go near it. Also, the menu tells you you must choose the style in which he serves you.. you can pick a country from a list - e.g. Australia, Japan, France, England, Spain. A Japanese couple sat nearby started giggling, and the guy told me to go for Spain - "it's the best one!". So the guy disappeared into his dressing-up room, and suddenly, lots of Spanish flamenco music started playing, he was yelling "ole ole", clapping his hands and beating together little cymbals in his hands.
Then, the door opened slowly, and from around the corner, a BULL'S HEAD APPEARED! He flung the door open, came running out dressed as a BULL, stomping his feet, waving his arms, dancing in a Spanish style, still singing and clapping along. A group of Japanese guys stood up, and held their suit jackets in front of the bar owner, who participated in a mock bull fight (he kept yelling "Moo!" as he charged through their jackets). Later on, two Japanese girls arrived and requested "France". He disappeared into his dressing up room, threw a cartoon picture of a frog over the door, then did a puppet show for us over the door (a small frog puppet) - all in English - pretending the puppet was French... then, the French National anthem blasted out, the door opened, and he appeared dressed as a giant frog!!! He hopped around the bar, ribbeting all the time. In case you were wondering - yes, I did finally get my drink... Japanese shochu (v. strong spirit!) in a vibrating glass that kept spilling over me each time I lifted it to drink."

PPPPS I'm absolutely gagging to go back now after writing all this! ;)